Inspired by the iconic ‘Train to Busan’, I paired my stay in Seoul with a few days in South Korea’s coastal city, Busan. There was so much to see and do – it’s hard to know where to start! The area has a lovely balance of city and nature, as with Seoul, but of course here the coastal air and hiking trails come to the forefront. Below, I’ve included all my favourite, charming little spots, so you can spend a thoughtful few days exploring the highlights and finding some personal favourites of your own.
Katie’s verdict
Find a hotteok – immediately
I haven’t stopped dreaming of hotteok since I discovered it at stall in Busan. Dough fried in hot oil, then stuffed with cheese, seeds, honey and sometimes meat.
What a creation.
Before you go
The Practical Parts
ArrIVAl and departure
Train to Busan
There is an airport in Busan, but most tourists will most likely arrive into the KTX Station. The journey is around 3 hours from Seoul, and services run frequently multiple times per hour. The station is huge, but very easy to navigate. On arrival, I found it easiest to hop in a taxi to my accommodation rather than immediately tangling with public transport.
Getting around
Public Transport
Busan’s extensive Metro system makes it getting around easy, simply labelled in numbers 1-4 with distinct colours. Use Naver/Kakao Map to track your route, as in Seoul. If an attraction is not on the subway line, the bus will usually get there.
BEst Time to visit
Spring Blooms
There’s an argument for a trip year-round, but spring and summer is where Busan really shines. April brings potential cherry blossom viewing, while summer brings warm temperatures perfect for beach time, but prepare for crowds in July and August.
Don’t miss
Start Right Here
Three spots you simply must include for the ‘Best of Busan’
Gamcheon Culture Village
Beautiful maze of bright, colourful houses, wall art and shops tumbling down toward the ocean. I found it’s easiest to get a taxi here, so you can be dropped off at the Gamcheon Culture Village Information Centre and make your way down.
Haeundae Beach
Busan’s most famous beach, I stayed in this area when I visited, and I loved it. The sunsets looking out toward the Westin were stunning, and the crisp early spring air was just what I needed after a busy few days in Seoul.
Sky Capsule
How cute!! You can enjoy stunning coastal views along this 30 minute trip, and make sure to get your tickets in advance during busy periods. I hopped off in Cheongsapo to explore the seaside, and paired my ride with a visit to the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple.
Where to lay your head
Sleep Right Here
I would vote for staying in Haeundae for the best balance of convenient location and beach views.
The splurge
The Westin Josun Busan
Haeundae Beach · coastal beauty
Unbeatable views over the beach and perfect location, right by the Sky Capsule.
$$$ · from AUD $620/night
The sweet spot
L7 Haeundae by Lotte Hotels
Hauendae · balance of luxury and a bargain
Comfortable, modern hotel with an infinity pool and heated jacuzzi perfect for relaxing after a big day of wandering.
$$ · from AUD $210/night
The smart steal
Lavi De Atlan Hotel 2
Haeundae Beach · bargain sea views
Stumbled across this as a budget-stay, and was pleasantly surprised. Location couldn’t be better for exploring Haeundae, and I even had ocean glimpses from my large balcony.
$ · from £50 per night
by mood
Wander where you feel
Seoul deserves more than a route-march. This list is designed to make the itinerary work for you, not the other way around.
When You’re Hungry
Busan is brilliant for wandering, I didn’t make any reservations but hopped from spot to spot.
- Haeundae Market: I recommend basing yourself in Haeundae, and the Market is the perfect spot for your first meal! I enjoyed fresh gigimbap, mung bean pancakes and a massive marshmallow toasted with an iron man glove (you can’t miss it).
- Nampo-dong: This is where I discovered hotteok! Jagalchi Market is South Korea’s largest seafood market – you enter on the ground floor to peruse the day’s catch, pick your seafood of choice and take it upstairs where a vendor will cook it up for you! From here you can wander toward BIFF Square for street food stalls (where I discovered hotteok!) and a lively atmosphere, then ride up the Busan Tower for panoramic views across the city.
When You’re Lively
Busan comes alive along the water, and as the sunset appears the Gwangialli Beach fills with people walking, dining and socialising.
The area is best known for the picturesque views over the Gwangandaegyo Bridge and the M Drone Light Show in the evening. The bridge itself lights up in the evening, adding to the beautiful views.
It’s definitely worth visiting both Gwangialli and Haeundae, as they each have their own unique flavour. Gwangialli is much livelier, with the busy promenade lining the sand, and there’s the option to take a scenic river cruise to enjoy the light shows. The Busan Pass includes the sunset cruise, as well as Busan’s other most famous attractions.
When You’re Curious
A curious mood is the perfect opportunity to uncover Busan’s spiritual side.
Haedong Yonggusa Temple is perched dramatically along the coastline, offering a real juxtaposition to Seoul’s inner-city temples.
Try to arrive early if you can, I visited in March and around mid-morning it was very busy! It would have been even more spectacular in the quieter early hours.
When I wandered Haeundae’s streets, I noticed all these little neon booths in colourful pinks and purples. I had to look up what they were. I learned that fortune telling is common in Korea, which you may already know if you’re a fan of K-dramas. You have to do a little research to find an English speaking tarot reader, and most recommend going with a Korean-speaking friend if possible for a more ‘authentic’ experience.
When It’s Souvenir Time
Head to Millac The Market in Suyeong-gu – a cultural complex and ‘lifestyle space’ over-looking the ocean and Gwangandaegyo Bridge. There’s ‘Busking Square’ bringing live performances, ‘Ocean View Stand’ with a staircase style seating area with picture-perfect views. Upstairs there’s a range of pop-up vendors offering a lovely range of unique souvenirs.
When You’re Weary
For some relaxation after all my exploring (and eating), I headed to the Shinsegae Centum City Spa Land. Land is right, this is nothing like any spa I’ve visited before! The spa is spread over two massive floors – there’s space, as Shinsegae Centum City is the largest department store in the world.
There’s 18 different hot springs and 13 different sauna and spa areas, all designed for wellness and pain relief. They’re all beautifully designed and soooo relaxing! You could really get set up all day here – there’s even a noodle bar with a wall of instant noodles and different toppings, as well as complimentary rice tea (not my favourite, but very good for you apparently).
This is also a little more accessible for tourists, as there’s plenty to explore without getting nude, as is traditional. There is a gender-separated bath area, where nudity is compulsory. It can feel odd at first, but it feels natural quicker than you think! Everyone else is very comfortable, and a few older Korean women struck up conversation with me which was entertaining without Google Translate to assist us (no phones allowed, of course)!
A little wander through